If you run a wireless relay/ remote, use a battery isolator/cut-off switch. The switch in post #7 appears to be a simple on-off switch, but it needs to be a center-off spring-loaded double-position switch, reversing polarity when it moves up or down. The wireless remote would eliminate running some wires, unless I wanted a manual switch too. Having it removable but able to be locked somehow would appeal to me as I don't need the duty it would perform frequently. I have a couple of steel rings welded into the front of the bed and I'm considering a tube which would run across the front floor to which the winch would be attached, maybe not using the previously-mentioned square I-beam girder section. ![]() The winch is mounted on a male receiver, square I-beam girder section. It's a boat winch, though I'm not using it for that, just to load things onto a trailer or into a pick up bed. stranded copper wire should be sufficient from the vehicle battery to the aux. Something in that range would seem appropriate. I see the relay/contactor is rated at 250 amps. As to tapping for a source of power, I think I'll look for a high-amp rated secondary fuse panel. I'll probably just make things easy, and buy the suggested 'frequently bought together' wireless remote, and spring-loaded switch with it.ĬADpoint, there are two bare-nutted terminals. htmdude57, looking for relays and momentary contact spring-loaded switches last night on the internet, I saw that same relay/contactor. Eureka! One way 'cable-out,' reverse the leads on the winch, and I have 'cable-in.' It works. Taking a leap of faith, I jumped from a well-charged battery, to each of the winch copper studs. There seems to be enough road maps on the internet to figure out how to wire this.Īs suggested, each circuit stud is insulated from the case, so trying to read from the one stud (or the other) to the winch case gives an 'open' circuit, both ways. ![]() If you have an ohm meter, one terminal will ring out to the chassis that is your common, the other terminal should not ring, that's your hot. Lastly, you'll have to determine which you want the use: a toggle switch or a rocker switch almost the same, a toggle is on when appliedĪnd a rocket is sometimes/most times a momentary switch meaning you have to keep pressure on it, more desirable when winching. The contactor is the relay to use when a circuit must support a heavy current load. The terms solenoid and relay can often be used interchangeably however, in the Automotive market, the term solenoid generally refers to a "metal can" type, whereas a relay typically refers to the standard "cube" style relay. Second, everything I see on wiring diagrams presents the use of a solenoid to be between a switch and the unit. Like the old days would not be a good thing! So just taping off the ignition power might Granted this was due to their wiring BS, but I'm just saying. Now I'm not an active wrencher but I do know I had to buy a special cord for my 2008 silverado just toĪdd a new stereo. Well first you didn't qualify what you're putting this on! You used to be able to find owner's manuals for nearly anything through their online parts site, but it's not that way in this case. One other thing, there's a nylon machine screw in what I assume is the gear case, I suspect this is for adding some type of gear oil/grease? There is another threaded hole opposite where the nylon machine screw is (3 o'clock/9 o'clock, on the third picture), I don't know if that's also supposed to have another nylon screw. ![]() My intended use is to pull things into my pick up, or onto a ~4' X 8' open, flat-bed trailer. ![]() Input, please, and thank-you.Īfter I get this squared-away for proper placement of the wires, I'll buy a switch and power cord, and a relay. My concern is, I don't want to short things out, because I have this wrong. Then the two copper threaded studs are used for power-in and power-out, providing 12V + to one or the other of the threaded studs. I suspect it's probably a simple wiring, where the negative should go to somewhere on the winch bracket when the winch is mounted to the vehicle, or wherever it's going to be placed. I tried finding the manual for it on the Sears site, no luck.
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